Czech Republic 2011 +
This trip turned out to be so enjoyable, thought it worthwhile to use a fresh page
Another rail trip:
Bath to Portsmouth, while here taking lunch at Wetherspoons. Then on to
Brighton, changing for yet another train to Ashford. Here catching our
final train that day for Dover, where we'd booked a room in a "Premier
Inn". Early the next morning for the ferry across to Calais. Luck was
with us here, as the rail timings worked out rather better than we'd
anticipated. First to Lille, where another train carried us on to
Brussels which was reached in the early afternoon, time enough to find
a room, also enabling a tour of the best parts in daylight.
Early
start the next morning; first we caught a train to Cologne, here just
enough time to walk outside the station and take look at the Cathedral.
We'd viewed this with more time, almost two years previously when we
stayed in this city. Then back in to catch another train which sped us
on to Berlin - 'sped' being a good word, because later, after passing
Hannover, it reached speeds as fast as 251 kilometres per hour (over
155 MPH) Our destination was reached past five in the evening. We had
taken the precaution of looking up, then booking a room in a hotel not
far from this station, now we had to find it. Large international
station, and it was very dark. As is not unusual in such a large place
at night, we could have found a better route to find the hotel. Still,
perhaps with a bit of luck, we did manage to locate it.
Below:
Grand Place in Brussels has some very impressive buildings round it.
Above:
Brandenburg Gate in Berlin always atracts hordes of tourists, right
Berlin HBF Station has two levels of rail tracks
I
was aware that Berlin was spread out over a large geographical area,
certainly as compared with many other cities. Even so, I was pleasantly
surprised at how really well we both coped with "booting" round the
interesting sights. Our hotel was pretty central, and not far to our
first halt, this to view exhibits relating to the former Berlin Wall.
Next along the famous "Unter-den-Linden" street to the Brandenburg
Gate.
Lot of tourists here, and all very interesting. Then a view of the
Reichstag. On again roughly following the line of the "wall" to try and
find the once famous "Checkpoint Charlie". On doing so, it was along
walk back up "Friedrichstrasse" to our hotel. A tiring but thoroughly
satisfying day.
Mostly
a restful day Sunday (6th November) but we did do a trip on a tourist
river boat, worth doing, being that the commentary was interesting, one
bit of information being about station pictured above in that it is
reckoned that the number of passengers passing through each day
is around half a million. Strikes me as a lot, but as the 'photo
clearly shows, it is on two levels. Lines running from the north pass
under the River Spree into the station, while the east/west lines runs
on the upper levels of tracks.
Next
morning, down to the station again, here we caught a train that had
started from Hamburg, at around 7.30 AM, and was timed to reach its
final destination at past ten in the evening. This the literature on
board informed us was a place called 'Villach. I'd not heard of this,
but the train staff said it was in Austria. However on its way it was
to pass through Prague - or as the Europeans call it "Praha". This was
to be our destination. One good reason for our trip was to get value
from the scenery were would pass through. Below are views as we passed
beside the River Elbe. As usual, certainly if not arriving
after dusk (not uncommon then either!) our first job would be to find
some accommodation. Eventually we came upon Wenceslas Square, a name
known to the majority of us. Actually it is not a 'square', just a very
wide street or boulevard. Attractive even so.
So
here above right is the hotel we found! Bit posh you may think -
no not really. Almost certainly at one time it was though, but it has
had rather a 'come down' since I'm afraid. The charge to us for a very
decent room, was hardly more than £50 per night. But, there was no hot
water, not much of a problem to me, I just started growing a bit of
beard. In reality it was a perfect place to stay, in a
very famous street, as the following photographs illustrate: First,
being view from our window, then view along 'square', next on the well
known Charles Bridge. Changing of the guard at the palace, the
trumpeters playing from the windows. Finally, some stained glass,
and
a city view. The two nights we stayed is certainly not sufficient to
take in all the sights of this magnificent city, even at our speeds!
But on our outward journey, we had had to specify a return, so we only had a fortnight.
Interesting
that even in the early winter, Prague was still busy with visitors. We
did though take a river cruise, and to my surprise for the whole hour
of the trip, we were the only two aboard! Later for evening meal, there
was no-one else in the restaurant but ourselves, our host did comment
that there where too many caterers in the town.
As
I mentioned on my '2007 Blog' during a car journey, we cut through a
corner of the Czech Republic, and were quite amazed at the outstanding
buildings of a town we came across. We'd heard about another
interesting town not far away, so decided to have a look at that. So
walk back up to the station, and catch a train to Karlovy Vary.
Rather off-putting on arrival, as the station was away from
the town, and up a hill. Actually walking down, we had rather a problem
in discerning where the actual centre of the town was. Once located, we
quickly found a room for the night. Seems this town has several
parts, when we came upon the "Lazne" area we really
where staggered by the place. "Lazne" is the
word meaning "spa" in these parts, ans a quite
outstanding spa it is too. Bath absolutely in no way
compares. Virtually every building is a show place in itself, as I
think some of these 'photo's well illustrate. Karlovy Vary may be
better known as "Carlsbad", not sure when the name changed, but I see
that is how it is named on Google maps.
Note
the steam in the picture above right! Obviously good hot springs here,
and the 'photo below indicates the value. Bath has competition!
Another comparison with Bath is shopping, which to my mind no way
compares with Karlovy Vary. Judging by the amount of Cyrillic script
around, it seems the Russians may have quite an influence here, perhaps
not only as customers, but may well be as owners also. Certainly to my
admittedly untrained eye, the range and quality of goods displayed was
amazing, beating even St Moritz, and that is notable for the display of
wealth it exhibits.
Next
morning a walk back up to the station, climb being not as bad as I
thought it might be. I find these stations interesting. Unlike Britain,
transport of goods by rail is important, and Karlovy Vary had plenty of
activity in this regard, must admit I took a lot of 'photo's just a
couple placed here. The coaching stock is pretty old fashioned by
modern standards. Not many rail systems I think still use coaches with
compartments and corridors. Once on our journey I was surprised at how
industrial parts of the country we were passing through was. I suppose
I had not expected this to be so.

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We
were heading into Germany, interesting to me how readily these trains
cross through borders, it is if Europe is just one single state.
Actually to my mind this as it should be, and really nice in this
instance it works like that. But then of course I'm a great fan of a
United Europe. The first station we came to was Marktredwitz (yes this
is the spelling!) Here catching another train to carry us south to
Schwandorf. Then a short hop into Regensburg. This a city I do admit
we'd visited other times when motoring. Quickly we found a hotel, then
walked up the town to take a glimpse of the Danube. Looked as if the
Locks were not in active use, possible this could have been due to low
water levels, as we subsequently found out many waterways in Europe
were suffering their lowest levels for a hundred years.
Now
rarely here do I mention food. Though I may not have mentioned it then,
but one outstanding meal I have never forgot, was at a place called
Mittersill, this being in west central Austria, when we halted there
about three years ago. Forgot the exact menu. However Regensburg is not
much distance north of that village, so interesting to say the least,
that I had a just as memorable meal here. In this case I will remember,
as I now relate: Starter being a minestrone type beef soup, in the
middle of which was placed a dumpling, this flavoured with such as
bacon. Excellent. But it was the main course I shall not forget, so
simple; just two slices of pork, only that and potatoes. But the pork
was coated with breadcrumbs flavoured with a mix of horseradish and
mustard. That in itself was outstanding. The potatoes the menu
indicated was 'roast', but not roast in the way I know. Fact, I would
not have the foggiest as to how they were cooked, just that they made
an excellent compliment. The desert was likewise perfect, even
though it was termed a 'drunken pancake'! Menu in English of this restaurant I've placed here: The main course I chose is at top.
Very
long rail ride the next morning. Stating at 08.30 by catching a train
which carried us up to Cologne. The final hour or so of this ride
passed by the side of the River Rhine, very enjoyable. Just two of the
'photo's I took are placed below. I've long been fascinated by the
commercial traffic these waterways carry.

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We
had an hour or so before the train to carry us onto Brussels, so we
exited the station on the opposite entrance to that of the Cathedral,
and found ourselves a comfortable place to have a snack. On the train
again, we began to realise it might be best to carry on to the
destination that we had had in mind to spend the weekend. This was
Brugges. No hotel booked, but we decided to risk it, and go on. So, we
ended up coming out of the station, into an unknown town, following a
twelve hour rail journey - it being by that time after eight in the
evening. And not a room booked!
Walking
along, we came across some people, who were themselves out for a walk,
and inquired of them as to accomodation. They turned out to be very
helpful. The first hotel they pointed us too when we looked at it, had
a "complete" notice on the door, so we knew it was full. But our
helpers had indicated the direction to look for others. So we trotted
on. First on we came upon was also full up. So on again. Bit luckier
then as the reception lady immediately indicated there was room, so bit
of comfort! Then she had to deal with 'phone calls while we waited.
Then a bit of bad news. She only had what was termed 'Superior' rooms,
and these would cost more than we usually pay. What to do? We pondered.
But it was obvious, we should take it. Fact, as I've since found out,
the price we did pay, was fair in comparism to other hotel charges in
Brugges. It has in fact a large range of hotel, and tourism is its main
and perhaps only industry.
We
had taken a tour into this town just two years previously. We consider
it a pretty outstanding place. But then so do vast numbers of others,
even at this time of year, it being packed with tourists. The first
morning of our stay, the square in front, also streets were packed with
stalls for the weekly market, this in itself was entertaining. Though as mentioned
we had viewed previously, we do prefer making our own
explorations. This partly the reason for a returnto this town. Another being we felt ought
to be quite close to Calais for our crossing to Dover on Monday. We do not consider it
wise to travel at weekends if avoidable.
Just
again to comment on meals out: Obviously necessary when travelling.
Fact, all in all likely to be at least a thousand in the years since I
became "leisured". Intrigues me that in this whole period only three
memorable ones stand out. Incredible likewise that these should be in a
compact area of central Europe. One just a dish taken in a town called
Samobar just west of Zagreb in Croatia. The next perhaps less than a
three hours drive north into Austria. Finally, Regensburg, this just a
short distance north again. The general conception that France is the
place for culinary perfection, being very certainly not a view I would
hold.
Recently
though becoming happier with English meals, instances at the years end;
We took a trip into Herefordshire, staying at a 'Premier' in Hereford.
One day driving out to Weobley, a favourite village of ours. The meal
we had at the Salutation Inn, being really good. Following day's meal at Blue Boar in Hay-on-Wye, likewise.
I've
not counted, but have wondered if we have broken 'records' for 'nights
away' in 2011! To add to numbers, should record a couple of nights
spent at a 'Premier' in Weymouth, this in mid December, and taken
partly for convenience of visits.
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